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Chiffon or voile is a very fine, sheer fabric that can be recognized by its slightly grainy surface. It has a luxurious appearance, which is partly due to the fact that chiffon is often used for bridal and evening wear. However, because it is thin, soft, and airy, the fabric can also be used to make comfortable summer clothing. Although the thin material looks fragile, it is surprisingly strong and crease-resistant.
Because the fabric is so thin and semi-transparent, chiffon is often compared to crepe, and crepe georgette in particular. These two are used for similar types of clothing. Chiffon is often combined with opaque fabrics to make a bridal gown, summer tunic, beautiful blouse, or an elegant scarf. Along with the fact that chiffon was initially very expensive, this led many to consider the fabric luxurious. Chiffon possesses considerable elegance. It always falls beautifully and is very light, making the material not only stylish but also very comfortable.
Although there are many similarities between chiffon and crepe georgette, there are also a few clear differences. Perhaps the most striking is the subtle sheen that chiffon has. This enhances the fabric's luxurious appearance. Furthermore, chiffon feels softer and smoother on the skin. Additionally, chiffon has better stretch than crepe fabrics, which means it retains its shape and clothing made from it generally drapes better. However, the edges of chiffon fray readily and are therefore weaker than those of crepe. Which fabric you choose depends entirely on your own preferences.
If you examine chiffon under a magnifying glass, you can see that it has a kind of fine, mesh-like structure. This is why the material is translucent. Voile is rarely used as the sole fabric in a garment, but it does provide exceptionally elegant accents, especially when draped in several layers. During the production process, the yarn is twisted slightly, which creates the rough, grainy texture of the fabric. Over the years, the fabric has left behind its somewhat negative-sounding name – "chiffon" is French for "cloth" or "rag".
It is not surprising that chiffon has a French name, as it originally came from France. Initially, the fabric was made there from pure silk, making it very expensive. At that time, it was mainly people of high status who wore chiffon. Among that group, chiffon could attract a lot of admiration because the fine silk fibers absorbed dye well. The fabric was therefore available in various beautiful colors. After the industrial revolution, the production of voile became somewhat easier, which meant that the material could be made all over the world. In the early twentieth century, no country produced more chiffon than the USA.
However, the world still had to wait a little longer for a real revolution in chiffon. In 1938, nylon chiffon was first produced, followed twenty years later by a polyester variant. Because these synthetic fibers were much cheaper than silk and also very strong, chiffon became popular among a much wider audience in the following period. More and more clothing made of voile was seen. Additionally, the material was used to make curtains and upholstery. Synthetic alternatives have therefore given the fabric a new lease of life.
At Quality Textiles, you can find chiffon woven from various materials. A large part of our collection consists of fabrics made of synthetic fibers such as polyester and viscose. But there is also a natural voile fabric made of cotton. Similar to the original silk version, these more affordable materials respond well to dye. You can order chiffon in around 40 different colors from us. This makes it possible for everyone to bring a little luxury into their home and in their favourite color.
The only disadvantage of chiffon is that being such a light, thin fabric, it is relatively difficult to work. However, with good preparation, many potential problems can be nipped in the bud. The fabric is easy to cut, but because it slips, a surface is needed on which it stays in place. Placing cotton or linen underneath the fabric reduces the risk of slipping. A rotary cutter is usually more reliable than scissors for voile. In addition, the seams must be finished immediately, as chiffon frays readily. Use fabric clips to attach pattern pieces instead of pins to avoid creating holes in the material.
Because chiffon is such a fine material, we recommend using the thinnest needle possible. A very fine microtex needle with a thickness of 60-80 is the best option. We also recommend sewing with very short stitches. Longer than 1.5-2 millimetres will certainly be unnecessary. We also recommend using French seams, so that the first seam is hidden by a second row of stitching. Thin, smooth thread provides the best result. Cotton chiffon should be washed before sewing to prevent shrinkage. This can be done on the delicate cycle in the washing machine.
Give chiffon the little amount of attention it needs while sewing, and the result is beautiful clothing with an unparalleled chic look. For this and many other stylish fabrics, such as crepe and tulle, you can turn to the webshop of Quality Textiles. If you want to reinforce parts of your pattern with fabrics such as batting, you can also count on us for that. In addition, we have a wide range of top-quality sewing tools and handy haberdashery items in our online store.